During last year’s West Bloomfield ski trip to Whistler, we discussed doing something more adventurous in 2020 as we are all turning 50 years old (50!). We discussed somewhere in the Alps. I’ve been wanting to ski in Japan, too, but haven’t yet made it happen. As the plans were coming together, the best week for some of the group just happened to be right after the kids’ ski week, which was still a priority for me. Therefore, I told them to just go ahead and plan without me.
After seeing Nick over the holidays, we discussed the trip and inquired with the rest of the team about the details. Grace was super cool with me going. I even talked to my team about my reservations about being gone so long and they encouraged me to press the “F***-it button.” Once I confirmed with the powers that be, Nick and I both made our arrangements to join the trip.
The group had been discussing various itineraries in Europe and had settled on skiing in Austria in St. Anton am Arlberg. There was some consideration for adding another location, but thankfully we avoided a lot of additional logistics by sticking to one spot. Most of the group arrived just before Nick and I met up at the Zürich airport. We were like lost kids once we got to the Zürich Main Station. We had just missed the earlier train by a few minutes, which was fine because it took us about an hour to figure out where to get our tickets (mobile app) and the proper platform, which was more elusive than getting to Hogwarts on 9 3/4.
Once aboard, we settled in for our 2h 20m train ride to St. Anton. It was a shame that it was dark out and that we couldn’t see any of the Swiss and Austrian country-side. Unbeknownst to us, we also passed through Lichtenstein. Even though the walk from the train station to the hotel was short, it was still a huge pain in the ass with us each carrying skis, boots, gear, etc. At the hotel, Mike, Steve, Scott and Herb were already waiting for us. The 25th was Mike’s actual 50th birthday, but we arrived a little too late to celebrate properly.
Every morning, we were treated to a beautiful Tyrolean breakfast at the hotel. It had apparently not snowed for 5-6 weeks, but we were lucky that it just started snowing as we headed out to ski. The weather was so severe that the lifts to the other areas of the mountain were closed. This region is unique in that about 6 different towns/ski areas are all interconnected by trails and lifts, making it one of the top five largest in the world. We were, however, land-locked in St. Anton for a couple days, which mean there were a lot of people to dodge and sometimes long lift lines. I will say that one of the downsides of skiing there is the chaos on the gondola and lift lines. There is just one big crowd that inches their way towards the front, which leads to sharp elbows and an un-relaxed experience.
On the first day, we got caught in a white-out high up on one of the mountains. It would be exaggerating to say zero-visibility, but it was really more like 10 feet. I’ve never experienced anything like it. We got separated and I was just trying to make my way down as fast as possible, which wasn’t very fast. There are signs to mark the trail, presumably for this very situation, but even those were hard to find. At one point, the snow was moving past me so quickly that I thought I was moving backwards, which was completely disorienting. I had no idea where to go or where I was. Thankfully, the group was able to rendezvous lower on the mountain. The rest of group had rescued a young woman who was separated from her family and asked to ski with them. Just 100 yards from a lodge in which we took shelter, we got separated again from Mike and Steve who completely missed it.
Day two was less treacherous. We had lunch on the mountain at a place recommended to us and it was excellent. Even by this time, however, I realized how heavy the food was in Austria, and I couldn’t take another schnitzel, gröstl, burger or frite. I had to opt for a salad for dinner at Fuhrmann-Stube, one of the best restaurants in town.
On the evening before our third day of skiing, it snowed about 11 inches. After skiing another morning in St. Anton, Mike was very curious to try Rendl, the area on the other side of the train tracks. I’m thankful for his persistence because as we headed over there, the skies opened up for a bluebird, knee-deep powder day with the most spectacular scenery. It really can’t be described, but from top of every lift, there was a different breathtaking view and vantage. I was in awe all week.
On the fourth day, we decided to explore more of St. Anton and beyond. We went much higher up on the Valluga lift. Scott has a healthy survival instinct, so he didn’t go, but the reality was he could have easily skied down from there. Once again, there were amazing new views. We skied all the way to Lech, Stuben, and finally down to St. Christophe. Our terrible lunch that day was made up by the best meal of the week at Hazienda. I’ll be honest that I didn’t find the people to be the most hospitable and friendly in town, but our servers at Hazienda couldn’t have been more kind and gracious. I also had one of the best “sandwiches” (beef tenderloin club) of my life.
On day five, it snowed again overnight. Herb headed home after breakfast. It didn’t seem like as much snow, but we went back over to Rendl. We had the most amazing groomer run of the week until we skied into a cloud and low visibility. We decided to head up to the top (Scott excepted), and found blue skies and deep powder. I had one of my best powder runs of my life. I’m not going to lie. It was scary to get over to the fresh snow as there are exposed rocks everywhere off-piste. I had a slight code-brown staring down from the narrow traverse down the steep hill to rocks below. Once we were in the clear, Steve took a little tumble and while we waited for him, I noticed a small avalanche had happened right above his friend, Ramin, who was right above me. I thought it best not to wait and took the ride of my life (thanks for the video, Mike!).
As it warmed up, the snow became a little mashed potatoes and sticky even on-piste. We called it a day a little early to avoid injury and get ready to pack and head out. Our train was surprisingly delayed to get back to Zürich. Despite researching a nice dinner for us in Zürich, it turned out to be better that we didn’t and we ended up just having dinner at our hotel. I headed out by myself for a few minutes before to take some pictures. We also went for a short walk together afterwards and then watched the end of a terrible Michigan game. Spartan-helmet-wearing Nick couldn’t bare to watch for other reasons.
We didn’t have much time on our last morning together. Nick headed out early after breakfast. Steve, Scott, Mike and I took a short walk near our hotel. Steve was staying an extra night and the rest of us took a car to the airport (which was great because I was tired of schlepping all of my gear). The silver lining of being delayed a few hours at the airport was that I was able to process all my photos. Sorry, but I chose the best 143 of them.
This was no doubt our best trip ever. That said, not all of the team could make it, for very good reasons. They were missed. We’re already planning for next year, and while it probably won’t be as epic, with this crew, it will be just as memorable and fun. Here’s to the next 50!
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This crew goes back to Kindergarten/elementary school. We’ve been doing this ski trip for a long time. This year, our birthdays end in a zero, so we leveled up to Austria. It’s been snowing for two days straight and now it’s a bluebird day. I’ve skied a lot, but this is one of the best days ever on any mountain and it’s especially awesome to be here with these guys.
Clara and Mike invited us to Tahoe for ski week. Unfortunately, Grace’s aunt passed away the day before our trip, so she went to Florida to be with the Hur side of the family for most of the week. Lucas, Olivia and I headed up to Tahoe on Saturday for the week.
We didn’t have last year’s epic snow, but there was enough. I learned the hard way that sometimes, enough isn’t enough. On Monday, we planned to take the only mogul run on the back for the last run of the day, hoping things had softened up in the warm temperatures. About 3 turns in at the top, I came over the back side of a rock-hard mogul and pulled my calf pretty badly. I thought maybe it was just a cramp, but I had a hard time getting down. I was able to limp back to the lodge but soon realized I could ski better than I could walk.
The kids were hoping for some down time, which they got for the next couple days while I stayed off my leg. I was determined to make sure they got in some runs, so we skied on Thursday and Friday and I was 80%. It was bluebird days every day. They had a lot of fun with Alex and Nico both on and off the slopes.
The Binzers came in from Portland for the second half of the week and we were all able to ski and hang out together. It was a bummer that Grace wasn’t with us, but I know she appreciated the time with her extended family. Thanks, Moons, for another fun week together in Tahoe!
Even though Bobby is not the biggest fan of Vegas, he happened to be there for work and suggested we meet up for a golf trip. And although he is isn’t turning the big 5-0 for another couple weeks, Ed and I used the milestone to justify squeezing this trip in to an always busy winter. Ed even moved his call and a day of surgeries around.
Fun Bobby only turns 50 once. Because he is so much older than us, it was only fitting that we mark the occasion to honor him. We stayed at the Cosmopolitan instead of our usual Encore/Wynn. The crowd is a little younger and there is more to do/eat there.
The weather, while not pool-perfect, was still awesome. The wind was up at Paiute Wolf, which is already super challenging. We posted some really bad scores. On Saturday, we played at Bear’s Best, which is our home course. Although the weather couldn’t have been more perfect, the scores didn’t improve too much.
We had three great dinners on the trip at STK, Scarpetta and Milos. The latter two were a first for me and both were excellent, especially Milos, which is a fun experience (whole grilled fish is the way to go).
The trip might have been about four hours too long, which is why I left for the airport four hours early with Bobby. Had a great time with these life-long best friends (and best men).
Happy Birthday, Bobby!
Fair warning that I’m going to be playing this milestone birthday card all year long.